imported_Cassie

Most breeds with floppy ears can be prone to ear infections. I found a change in diet to be beneficial to helping to combate a yeast over growth. A few of my Newf's suffered from ear infections before I changed their diet. For a gentle cleanser we use green tea, brew it and cool it :wink: [quote]At school when we bathe dogs we put cotton in their ears we usually have lunch after and put our dogs in crates for a break.[/quote] MajiesMom, my boss has been grooming for over 20 years (she is also a national certified master groomer and used to compete in all breed grooming). She will not use cotton balls in the dogs ears when bathing. There have been many cases where groomers forget to take the cotton balls out which leads to a major ear infection for the dog. There are also times when tiny pieces of the cotton ball can stay in the dogs ears without the groomer being aware of it. When we bath a dog we protect the ear canal by placing our finger or a couple of fingers over it while bathing the face and ear area. I am not trying to over ride what your instructor is teaching you...this is just some thing I thought I would share this information. [quote]Our intructor said to remeber to take out the cotton from the ears because the dog may attack you when you go to take them out.[/quote] The only time a dog would react this way is if it were experiencing an ear infection and the ears were sensitive, or if it has aggression issues prior to this. Years ago we used to put cotton balls in the dogs ears when bathing (until we learned better) and we never had a problem with a dog being aggressive or attacking when taking the cotton balls out...if the dog showed sensitivity when working around the ears we informed the owner and asked they have the ears looked at by a vet. :wink:

This is a behavior demonstrated by many submissive/bottom of the totem pole dogs as well as dominant dogs....its not really a status issue...its a "trust issue". As kendalyn already mentioned confrontation does not work. Most people have the same response towards their dogs when they want the dog to drop some thing. The owner uses a negetive tone and some people even try to chase the dog down to get the object back etc. The only lesson the dog is learning is not to trust a person, they become defensive and will act out. The lesson we hoped the dog would learn is lost on the dog and the dog becomes more defensive and guarding. What you need to do first is teach Zebra to drop items on command. Make the training fun. I taught my Rottie the command "off" which works great for me. I taught her by holding a treat in the palm of my hand, holding my hand out palm up with treat exposed. Every time Athena went to grab the treat I closed my palm and said "off". When she gave up and looked away I then held out my hand and told her "take it". It takes a few lessons. For the first few months to remove an object that Athena was guarding I would tell her "off", remove the object then give her a treat for being such a wonderful good girl. The teaches the dog to trust its owner, remove one object the dog gets some thing better...then I gave her bone of what ever back to her. After awhile you can stop giving a treat to make your dog drop some thing...I use the command alot when playing to reinforce the command...a game of fetch is always bring the toy back to me, "off" and I will throw it for you again. The dog learns that you are not trying to steal items and that you are great at sharing. Think about it this way, our dogs evolved to be scavengers...they had to learn to steal food and garbage to survive. As soon as you see Zebra with an object you want to take away, approach in a non confrontational way. So basically approach with your body in a low position, almost stooped or crouched down. Make sure your side is to Zebras front...try not to face Zebra face on (confrontational approach). This will help Zebra understand that you are not a threat. Speak in a calm manner, take the item in your hand and say "off" or "drop it". Try to ease it out of your dogs mouth. Take a good look at the item and then...give it back. This can be done many times...of course make sure the object is safe for Zebra, but, it should also be some thing Zebra would normally guard. Giving the item back will help Zebra understand that you are not there to confront him. Dogs usually will feel less stressed over a situation and will soon learn that you are a caring/sharing care giver. Try to build Zebra's trust in you, some times by offering a treat in place of the item you want is a great way to start. If you keep taking items away it teaches a dog to be more protective of objects. By learning trust your dog learns respect. Zebra has to learn to let you remove thngs, sometimes he will get them back, some times he won't. When you want to be a good leader you do not have to show force of any sort. Positive approaches/methods work better as you gain the dogs trust. My Rottie demonstrated alot of the aggression issues Zebra is demonstrating except she was much worse (she did attack me when I first rescued her tearing apart the arm of my leather jacket). I used only positive training, I earned her trust...I didn't force her to do any thing...I asked. Athena now the sweetest most trusting dog you could ask for...any one can take any thing from her including a raw meaty bone. She has even on occassion shared a bone with one of my other dogs. Building a dogs trust and confidence is the first step to having a wonderful dog. :wink: Good luck, and have you made an appointment with an animal behaviorist...it might be a good idea if you havent already. :wink:

[quote]The reason it's so expensive for a newf is because of the brushing out of the undercoat. If people don't take the time at least once a week to brush it out, it can really get out of control. It's worse during shedding season. A newf also takes longer to wash and blow dry. Since a newf's coat is so dense and built to keep the undercoat dry while the dog is in water, it takes longer to get the undercoat wet[/quote] [b]quote by newfiemom[/b] Exactly :wink: There is alot more involved with grooming a Newf than grooming a Standard poodle...we put through alot of Standards in long trims which do not take all that long and are half the work. :wink: It takes a long time to get a Newf completely dry, and you need to get them 110% dry for the undercoat to start blowing out with the high velocity dryer. When we book in a Newf we have them dropped off in the morning, we bath them, zap with a high velocity, then we put them under a big dryer in a large kennel. We then put them up on the table again and dry some more for a couple of hours...when you have 2 people drying it can cut down on the time. Then after the dog is completely dry my boss will then brush the dog completley out (we help) then we comb them completely out. Then she trims up their feet, pants, under carraige etc. You consider the groomer is paying each bath/blowdryer $10.50 an hour (at the facility I work at) and I spend about 5 solid hours on it, then she puts in a couple of hours on the dog herself...thats alot of labour. We charge about $35.00 - $60.00 for a Standard poodle (depending on the shape and what kind of trim they want the poodle in) Standard poodles do not have a double coat and are pretty quick (compared to a Newf) to blow out completely and put in a nice trim. :wink: At the grooming shop I work at we charge $60.00 and up for a Newf..this depends on how much coat the dog carries, what kind of shape its in etc. If the dog is in bad shape, or has a few mats etc. then the price goes up accordingly...we give an estimate when the owner drops the dog off. The groomer I work for learned a long time ago that you cannot just have a base price for each breed...the price needs to go up or down depending on the shape of the dog. If the owners keep the dog in good shape, or if they come in regular, my boss gives them really awesome breaks. She has a few Newfs which come in for baths where she only charges $40.00 as they are in wonderful shape. Kind of a "good" care giver/owner discount. :lol: :wink: Just to update, the Newf which growled at the child while eating its food...the Newf is being put down tomarrow :( my friend who breeds Newfs gave the dog a chance to settle in etc. she had the dog growl at her a couple of times around food...she is not taking any chances, this is very abnormal behavior for a Newf. we all know its the fact that the dog was basically teased by the child (or mauled by the child) but, even so my friend is not taking any chances. I can't blame her for her decision. :( I would take the dog and try to work with it, but, I just have too much going on right now...and my boys may not appreciate another male (especially on as dominant as this one) to come into my home. [quote]But the Golden Retriever rescue site where I'm trying to adopt an 8 year-old dog (Hogan), has to get your application and application fee, then have a home visit, then a meeting with the foster, etc. They're very thorough, which is good, but it's hard to wait when the dog I want it out there waiting for me! I would rather have them be thorough to ensure that the dogs will be placed in their forever homes, and that they'll be taken care of and be happy and healthy.[/quote] JackieMaya, I completely agree with you. I think if more adoption agencys took more time to throughly investigate the new potential owners there would be less abuse cases. Although this is some thing which would be almost impossible to do with a high volume animal shelter... A breed rescue can put the time and trouble into placing a dog or pup into a forever home. I think its wonderful that organization you are adopting from is being complete...they sound great :wink: [quote]Doesn't it just amaze you when dogs who have been abused and neglected will still be so loving to people? It just breaks my heart to hear about stories like this.[/quote] It is amazing and its so unbelievable to think that after being abused they still don't lose their spirit or will to live. I have seen the worst abuse cases where dogs and puppies have been beat, tied and left for dead in the woods, clubbed over the head and left for dead etc. and these dogs are still so trusting and loving. I think they just so desperately want to be loved and to belong as they know it can happen with the right owner :wink: . The other thing which amazes me is that some of my best and most loyal dogs have been from neglectful homes. Its almost as if they always remember the day when they had a horrible life and they appreciate their new life so much more because of it :(

[quote]but I cant see enforcing the every 6 weeks to the groomers thing is going to work [/quote] She does not enforce a routine 6 week grooming with a professional:wink: if the new owners can look after the coat them selves then there is no need to have to go to a professional. She likes potential owners to be prepared to fork out about $100.00 dollars every 6 weeks if they can't look after the dogs coat them selves. She does not lead new owners down a false trail. She tells them how much work the coat is and that they need to be groomed...if not by the owner than by a groomer...and she does not sugar coat how much the grooming will cost. They can also bring the dog back into her for grooming if they live close by. We have a few clients who really thought they could keep up with the coat at home...they end up coming in to us at the grooming shop as it is so much easier for them. Plus, its amazing how many people even after shown how to groom only brush the outer coat :-? we have had Newf's come in which look wonderful if you just sat back and looked at them....but, underneath the outer coat there lays one big mat of under coat...alot of people also miss the groin area, bum and arm pits. There are alot of Newf owners as well who like the dogs pants pretty well trimmed down to nothing...some female Newf's are famous for peeing on their pants when they are left full...they can get sticky and stinky daily. One of my girls is like this, I have to keep her pants down to a shorter length as she gets pretty pissy after just one day...it was murder when she was being shown and had to be left in coat :-? My friend is keeping these 2 Newf's at her kennel at this point. The Newf which was left tied in the back yard was seized by the SPCA...I think I forgot to mention this. I am unsure if charges are pending against the owners. Lets just thank some nosey neighbors for reporting these people...although it would have been nice if they had reported them a little earlier...but, possibly they were unsure of just how bad the situation was. One last thing, this is hitting me really hard as my friend told me that this dog which is in such bad shape is the son of my old Newf Solo (the Newf who died of bone cancer) I see so much of Solo in this poor Newf...a little bit of his personality is there. I guess this brings back all of my old feelings of feeling powerless against a situation I could not fix. Today they are going to see if they can put the dog under and flush its ears. They are also going to do x-rays to see if he has a spinal problem or what is going on with his rear end. It will take awhile, but, he will get better...I am sure of it. He has lots of spirit and will to live. The vet tech who will be taking him rescues other dogs as well (usually hard luck cases) so the Newf will be in capable hands. If he didn't already have a home lined up the breeder would have kept him. The vet tech had met the Newf before he came to our kennel...he had been held at a local vet clinic where the SPCA makes drop offs. The SPCA had gotten in touch with the local Newfoundland dog rescue (which is my friend) so now the dog is the responsibility of the rescue group. My friend is pretty good at getting all kinds of support and funds into her rescue group so there is all kinds of money to look after these cases. :wink:

We have just rescued 2 Newfoundland dogs this week :( My friend who breeds Newf's also does Newf rescue (as well as other breeds). One of the Newf's was in a sorry state, the breeder who sold this dog was warned not to sell to these people...but, sell she did :-? when the people first bought the pup money was great...after they had the pup for a few months the hubby lost his job....money was tight and the breeder fed the pup for the first 2 years at her expense. The people then stopped coming for food and the breeder lost contact with them. The breeder was unable to contact these people and assumed all was well. Well, we got this poor dog back, he is now 8 years old and had been left chained in a back yard, malnourished, barely able to stand up on his own and had a maggot infestation. My friend who breeds Newf's took him right into the vet, my boss at the grooming shop cleaned him up and the vet took care of every thing else. He is going to live. What a sorry sight he is. His ears were also so infected you could not get near the dogs head without him screeching and ducking his head...of course he was never aggressive or showed his teeth...he just tried to move away as best he could without having to get up as he can not get up on his own. :( I have seen alot of sorry sights in my life, and I have seen some of the worst neglect cases and abuse cases...but, this really broke my heart. He is just so happy to see any one who comes to visit him and lays there thumping his tail. My friend who breeds Newf's said to me today that this is one of the reasons she is so picky of who buys one of her pups. She requires 3 references and one must be from a Vet or a person who works with dogs and is well respected. She also will not sell to young families...she finds young children and teenagers take away the time that should be spent on her dogs. Hey, shes allowed to think this way :lol: She has found in the past that people who sell a Newf to young families (there are many exceptions) have been shipped back a matted and neglected Newf...they don't have the time to spend on the dog and it starts taking a back burner. Of course this is not the case with all young families...just a few. She also will not sell a Newf to some one who is not prepared to spend appox. $100.00 every 6 weeks or so having it groomed by a professional...unless of course they come and learn how to groom a Newf properly from her the breeder. Many people think keeping on top of a Newf coat looks easy....its not. I just had to share this as this really broke my heart. :( we have a good home lined up for this poor boy with a local vet tech. She is well aware of all of his health issues and where she works at a clinic will be able to afford to keep him on his meds etc. The other Newf was given up by the owner as the Newf growled at her 3 year old child whom they allowed to play in the dogs food dish while it was eating :-? :o from what I have heard they allowed this child to crawl all over dog when it was eating or sleeping. Any way, we are going to do a temperment test on the dog...if it passes then it will be placed in a home with no children with experienced dog persons (close personal friends of the my friend) or the dog will be put to sleep. The tests they will put this Newf through will be extreme...a Newf should never ever show any sign of human aggression ever...not even if a child is crawling all over it. Any way, my bit of bad news of the day.

[quote]I assume its a skunk. God knows there are plenty around. I was surprised by the smell. I was expecting some horrible, gag-and-puke type of smell. But my first reaction was that he had been chewing on the mint leaves at the front of the house.[/quote] If thats how your skunks smell, I would like to have a few imported to my area :wink: I would be using skunk anal gland secretion to scent my home if it smells like mint :lol: I find the richness of the secretion from skunks to gag me up and it has never even crossed my mind that it smelled like mint when bathing skunked dogs at the grooming shop. Perhaps Zeke rolled in some thing in the yard, just to be on the safe side I would do a spot check of the yard for any thing foul that may have been dragged there. For removing horrible scents I found a great enzyme based product works great. I have found some great sprays at my local vet clinic to spray furniture. I have never used fabreeze so perhaps that works just as well. [quote]He's in the ensuite pressed agaist the cabinet, he's got one eye that's all runny and half closed and he's drooling like crazy.[/quote] This sentence does make me realize the poor dog was sprayed by some thing. Normally if they roll in some thing they don't get it in their eyes.

I have 6 dogs, the only problem I have is trying to make sure each gets eqaul amounts of attention. With my dogs I just threw them all in together with no issues. I have 2 intact males and an intact female, the other 3 are spayed and nuetered. I have had no problems with heirachy issues. The best thing to do is to introduce your new dog to your own dogs on nuetral territory. Have some one meet you with your new dog and let them get to know each other. Having 2 dogs at home (their territory) then bringing another one in can cause a little bit of huffiness at first with some dogs. Good luck and the dog you are about to adopt is beautiful. We have quite a few Golden/Shepherd mixes which look exactly like this dog come in for grooming.

I will feed the liver & Heart from Lamb & beef, the only reason I will not feed liver or internal organs including heart from deer or moose is due to toxic levels of pesticides in their system. I was talking with my brother tonight and he explained to me in a little more detail about this. In my area of the world we have large pulp & paper mills and foresty is a major part of the economy. When maintaining large woodlots the forestry industry will use heavy amounts of pesticides. Our wild animals have to eat the foods and live in these areas so their organs become toxic. We had a women in our area who got very sick while skinning a rabbit. She cut her finger and some of the rabbits blood got into the open wound, she has become very ill. I will not feed my dogs rabbits unless they are farmed...never wild. I can't remember the name of the disease they spread but it is very dangerous.

My dogs get deer and moose meat every season :wink: I have never given my dogs the organs of the wild deer or moose. I only give the meat and bones that my brother doesnt use. For instance I have given them a whole leg to chew on and my brother has given me some great peices of meat. I feed all of the meat raw. I was told by my brother who has been hunting for over 40 years that the liver of moose especially is toxic. I don't know about deer, but, just to be on the "safe" side I have never fed the liver to to my dogs.

By the way drjeffrock, DivineOblivion19 and DeafAussieLover all of your pictures are gorgeous! I love the pictures taken at the beach. DeafAussieLover your babe looks some sweet in the wet n wild picture :lol: :wink: Kat your business plan sounds wonderful. It seems people are more inclined to seek people to dog walk during the day. Also pet sitting seems to be getting quite popular. A friend of mine is always on the go horse/dog and cat sitting. Good luck with your business. :wink:

I can e-mail you a picture of 5 of my dogs all sitting at the beach together. I havent a clue how to post picutres on this website. Every time I try I get a fatal error and my computer shuts down. :( So if you want to PM me your e-mail I can send you pictures of my dogs.

K, at the boarding kennel I work at we accept titer tests. By law in my area you have to accept a titer test. This is great for people who are concerned about over vaccinating their pets. The border crossing will also accept titer tests as well. The only down fall with titer testing is they are very expensive. Also at the kennel I work at and the vet clinic I work at we do not require dogs over the age of 6 to show proof of vaccines. Some say that older dogs no longer require yearly vaccines as they stress the immune system and other argue that older dogs need yearly vaccines due to the lowered immunity. I myself have chose not to vaccinate my dogs yearly. My old girl which is now around 9 years old I chose to stop vaccinating when she reached 7 years of age. I was finding that the vaccines where stressing her immune system and she started suffering from allergies. She is looking great now and no longer suffers hot spots etc. Also the kennel cough vaccine only protects against a couple of different strains of kennel cough. I have seen all dogs vaccinated or not vaccinated come down with kennel cough when exposed to the virus. Its the healthy dogs which recover the quickest. I see so many dogs daily which suffer from allergies and other immune related diseases, for me I think we are over vaccinating our dogs. This is just my own personal opinion and I have done well over the years by staggering vaccines and not getting them done yearly. Rabies I only give every 3 years. I just thought this may be of interest to every one. I myself really hope that the laws will change thier view on yearly vaccinating.

PETA reminds me of a bunch of stoned yuppies with nothing but anger to back up their claims. We now live in the "modern world" we are creatures of comfort and for our comfort and way of life and growing populations animals have suffered. There is not doubt that some animals have suffered and some have thrived. I don't agree with any of PETA's views...but, I would like to see a well organized committe get together and make a significant difference with our animals today. There are some things I think are cruel but necessary, for instance killing seals in northern Canada (Labrador, NFLD) too many seals too few fish, over population of humans = over fishing and add pollution to further complicate matters. There needs to be a healthy balance. If there were a few things I would choose to protest and change it would be -Please, stop polluting our oceans and forests and killing every thing slowly. I cringe when I watch a local tree forestry growing all of their trees and cutting down hectors of forest...then to protect their trees they fly over with pesticides (very dangerous pesticides). I have seen myself that after they use these pesticides all the fish in lakes for miles die and you cannot fish for years after they have "treated" their harvest of trees. Its disgusting, and the pesticides stay in the environment and cause further damage to all animals for years to come. I can remember when I was a child you could drink from any lake or stream any where...now, you would end up very ill and sick as it seems all of our water is polluted to a certain extent. -Stop feeding our food their own species and animals which only eat vegetation should only be fed vegetation. -Stop farming salmon and killing the wild ones with the diseases created in the farmed salmon areas which spill over to the wild ones. Stop using quick feeds and other abnormal products on our animals like chickens and cows. I hate it when you see local farmers using quick grow feeds...its unhealthy and abnormal. -Raise our chickens & cows and other food related animals in a healthy manner and let them graze and be free range. In the end you are providing safe meat for humans and the animals get more nutrients and make for healthier eating. If you had a commitee which was focused on the "right" things perhaps we could aim to have a better quality of life for all. In my opinion we need animals to eat, that is what God put them on earth for. But, greed of man has slowly destroyed many natural orders of animals...greed can never be cured, but, at least we can focus on making things better for future generations and clean up the unhealthy things we are currently doing. We are a smart species, but, greed always out weighs intellegence. Its sad when you see people trying to find cheaper was to mass produce our food etc. and in the end they end up causing horrible new diseases. :(

I hope you find her. Have your neighbors join in th search, check cars etc. I know of one person who lost her cat for a few days. One neighbor was a mechanic and had left a customers car door open, the cat had jumped in and fell asleep under the seat. The customer found the cat in his garage days after he had brought the car home. It was a good thing the mechanic had been wise enough to put an alert out to his cutomers :wink: Tabatha is so cute its possible that some one has already picked her up. Keep the lines of comunication open and advertise, advertise advertise. Put up notices at the local vet clinic.

NEW!!! VACCINATION PROTOCOL by Dr. Jean Dodd ---------------------------------------------------------------------- All of the 27 Vet Universities in the US have followed the immunization protocol as suggested by Dr. Dodd for years. All of these Hospitals will be changing their Vaccination Programs apparently. This is welcome news and you should print this out and take it with you to your Vet should you need reinforcement against over-vaccination. VACCINATION NEWSFLASH [CIMDA support] RE; J DODDS VACCINE PROTOCOL I would like to make you aware that all 27 veterinary schools in North America are in the process of changing their protocols for vaccinating dogs and cats. Some of this information will present an ethical & economic challenge to Vets, and there will be skeptics. Some organizations have come up with a political compromise suggesting vaccinations every 3 years to appease those who fear loss of income vs those concerned about potential side effects. Politics, traditions, or the doctors economic well-being should not be a factor in a medical decision. NEW PRINCIPLES OF IMMUNOLOGY Dogs and cats immune systems mature fully at 6 months. If a modified live virus vaccine is given after 6 months of age, it produces immunity, which is good for the life of the pet (i.e.: canine distemper, parvo, feline distemper). If another MLV vaccine is given a year later, the antibodies from the first vaccine neutralize the antigens of the second vaccine and there is little or no effect. The titer is not "boosted" nor are more memory cells induced. Not only are annual boosters for parvo and distemper unnecessary, they subject the pet to potential risks of allergic reactions and immune-mediated haemolytic anemia. There is no scientific documentation to back up label claims for annual administration of MLV vaccines. Puppies receive antibodies through their mothers milk. This natural protection can last 8 - 14 weeks. Puppies & kittens should NOT be vaccinated at LESS than 8 weeks. Maternal immunity will neutralize the vaccine and little protection (0-38%) will be produced. Vaccination at 6 weeks will, however, DELAY the timing of the first highly effective vaccine. Vaccinations given 2 weeks apart SUPPRESS rather than stimulate the immune system. A series of vaccinations is given starting at 8 weeks and given 3-4 weeks apart up to 16 weeks of age. Another vaccination given sometime after 6 months of age (usually at l year 4 mo) will provide LIFETIME IMMUNITY.

Here is an article on dry eye. [url]http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1606&articleid=451[/url] I have had 2 dogs in my past which had dry eye, a simple test at the vet clinic confirmed it. My vet is great, he said he could sell me expensive eye med's at a small fortune or I could just buy artificial tears at the local pharmacy at a small price :wink: I applied the artificial tears to my dogs eyes about 4 times a day with no problems. They lived for years with dry eye with no further problems occuring. I just bought the human artifical tears and my dogs did great :wink: Good luck to you, get the articficial tears to insert into ben's eys...and get ben into the vet just to make sure it is indeed dry eye.

[quote]Also Sadie is rarely given people food due to the fact she has a sensitive stomach and tends to vomit after eating it[/quote] Does she only vomit after eating human food? you could try bland mixtures such as boiled hamburg or chicken and white rice. Then start adding veggie mixtures (mixed in blender first). I would also try elavating her food dishes so the food is easier to swallow/digest. [quote]My Schnauzer got into my trash one time to get at some chicken bones, he ended up with food poisoning. He was very ill not to mention a $300. vet bill.[/quote] Any dog would get sick after eating chicken bones. The cooked chicken bones would splinter, raw ones do not. If you are nervous about feeding raw then slightly steam meats before feeding of course if you are going to partially cook any meats make sure they are deboned. I also steam my veggies as it makes them much easier to blend. I am also wondering if you mix in canned food with the dry food. My Rottie Athena would NEVER eat plain dry food :lol: she would starve her self first. With my dogs (although it can be expensive) I always add in a tablespoon of canned dog food. I rotate between Innovia, Wellness and solid gold...they love the canned solid gold. I also add in canned sardines, canned wild salmon, yogurt, hemp oil, ground flax seeds etc etc. of course not all in the same meal. Its also a good idea to add in digestive enzymes to ensure your dog is getting all the nutrients other herbs which are great for nutritive support are nettle leaf, dandelion leaf, wheatgrass and barley grass (you can grow these at home for your dog to nibble on) When I rescued my lastest addition Beau my Dobie mix he had been running at large for a few months and eating out of garbage cans etc. He was half starved and serverly malnourished when I took him in. He did not lack for an appetite (as your dog does). What I did with Beau to get weight on him in a healthy manner was to feed 6 mini meals a day. He stomach was small and I didn't want to over do it. I mixed in canned food with his dry kibble, in my own opinion, its not really spoiling your dogs...its giving them a nice meal which smells great and certainly stimulates the appetite. I never leave my dogs meals down for very long (bacteria etc.). I think the biggest mistake I made years ago was with a border collie mix I owned when I was a little girl, she was a fussy eater. I started sitting down with her and hand feeding her meals...she ate...but, she would not go back to eating from a bowel it always had to be fed by hand...she lived to be 17 years old and I dedicated myself to 2 times a day to hand feeding her :-? it turned out to be a pain in the butt. I found a variety to my dogs diet really helps them to anticipate and enjoy their meals. Of course if your dog has a sensitive stomach this may not be a good idea.

HF, I am so sorry for what you are going through :( this must be taking quite a toll on you as well with all the running to the vets and the worry. I hope every thing clears up for you quickly.

You should never feel guilty, at least you recognized that their was a problem...and you are doing some thing about it.

Good for you, you will love working as a groomer and you look like you have a talent for it :wink: [quote]Hey, now I know someone who can come over and help me groom my newfs[/quote] Newfiemom, now don't be scaring the poor girl :lol: :wink:

[quote]He said that since Joey has growled and snapped at me in certain situations (like taking a bone away from him) he could attack and kill a small child at any moment. So.....I am taking him to see a behaviorist (the vet recommended one) Hopefully this will solve his situational aggression.[/quote] That is a good idea to set up an appointment with an animal behaviorist. I found what worked well for my Rottie when we went through aggression issues was to gain her trust through positive training. Alot of times we end up with dogs which do not trust us due to incorrect training or forceful training. For object guarding what I found worked great was teaching "off" and "take it", this teaches the dog that every thing belongs to you the owner and you control the objects...but, also it shows the dog that you are not a greedy owner and you are willing to share :wink: When I taught "off" or some people use the command "drop it" I used a treat my dog loves and held it in the palm of my hand, I held my palm open and told Athena "off" when she lunged for the treat I closed my fist over the treat...I kept repeating this until she gave up and looked away. I then opened my hand and said "take it" I repeated this over and over until she had it. Next step once she understood "off" I approached her as she was chewing on a raw meaty bone (her favoritie) I came over with a treat, told her off, took the bone away...gave her a treat then offered the bone back by saying take it. With Athena she trusts me and the other dogs whenever she has a raw meaty bone, I can give all 6 of my dogs bones together and they will all lay down next to each other and chew away with no object guarding any longer. I have taught them trust. I strongly suggest implementing the NIFIL policy ASAP if you havent already started this in your house hold. A good behaviorist who practices positive training can help you to earn your dogs trust and form a healthy relationship :wink: One last thing, when I first rescued my stray Dobie mix Beau, the vets nor I could get near his feet, ears...well, we just couldn't do an exam etc as he was freakish and didn't want to be touched. He actually lunged and snapped at the vet and the vet techs couldn't work with him either. I worked with Beau and used all positive training and desensitizing tactics....he is now great with the vets and techs. It only took us 2 months to bring him around. :wink: by gaining his trust and laying down a few simple rules he is a confident dog now who trusts me to the limits.

I was reading up on ear infections in my issue of the whole dog journal. They suggest using green tea brewed for drinking then cooled to room temperature for maintenance cleaning. They like green tea as it is gentle and of course does not contain alcohol but it does have an acidifying antibacterial properties. They also state "don't pour the cleanser into the dog's ear as it will just wash debris dwon and sit on the ear drum irritaing it. They also say that a combination of boric acid and a thick old fashioned ointment called pellitol is great for treating ear infections. You put the boric acid in the ear and work deep into the ear canal, next attach the pellitol applicator to the tube and squeeze the pasty ointment into the ear canal. Massage the ear. The pellitol dries up within a day or two, but if you leave it undisturbed for a week it removes whatever exudates are in the ear, whether they're sticky, tarry, yeasty, or slimy pus it just attaches to whatevers there, dries it up and every thing falls out together. After a week the ear should be much improved. Then use cotton balls or Q-tips to remove whatever's left. The treatment works well, it doesnt tramatize the ear. Word of warning the pellitol is very sticky, protect your furniture for a day or two as the ointment will stick to any thing it touches, and when you fill the ear it can stick to the outside of the ear of the dogs face. The excess will fall off and the rest you can remove with begetable oil, but, leave the inside of the ear flap alone. I have never used this treatment myself so I would certainly discuss it with your vet first. There is too much information in the article for me to successful type into this post :-? My Newf Cassie used to suffer from ear infections quite often, the root of her problem was a yeast build up from too many grains in her diet. A change in diet made a world of difference for her, the same for my Rottie Athena when I first adopted her she had horrible ear infections, a new diet worked for her as well...and also my stray Beau had infections coming out of every opening in his body when I fist found him...he is 100% better being fed wellness and home prepared meals. :wink: [quote]Blue Power Ear Treatment INGREDIENTS: 16 Oz. bottle of Isopropyl Alcohol (standard 70%) 4 Tablespoons of Boric Acid Powder 16 Drops of Gentian Violet Solution 1% sMix together in alcohol bottle and shake well. As detailed in It's For The Animals! Natural Care & Resources, you will also need to shake solution every time you use it to disperse the Boric Acid Powder. Purchase a flexible plastic bottle with the opening at the top so that the solution may be gently squeezed out and dispense solution to affected ears. The ideal is a hair-dye bottle available at a pharmacy or beauty supply store. TREATMENT PROCEDURE: Evaluate condition of ears before treating and if very inflamed and sore: do not attempt to pull hair or clean out ear at all. Just flush and then wait until inflammation has subsided, which will be about two days. Warm the solution (as instructed above) and shake the bottle each time before using. Flood the ear with solution (gently squirt bottle). Massage gently to the count of 60, wipe with a tissue. On first treatment: flood the ear twice, wipe with a tissue, and leave alone without massage. The dog will shake out the excess, which can be wiped with a tissue. Note: the Gentian Violet does stain fabrics, etc. so you may want to wear gloves- more information about this is at [url]www.ItsForTheAnimals.com[/url] The SCHEDULE of treatment is as follows: Treat 2x per day for the first week to two weeks, depending upon severity of ears. After the 2nd or 3rd day you can clean out the ear with a Q-tip or cotton balls. Caution: When using a Q-tip, only insert it as far into the ear canal as you can actually see. Use care to prevent the gunk from falling down into the ear canal. Treat 1x per day for the next 1-2 weeks. Treat 1x per month (or even less frequently, depending on the dog). Note: All of these ingredients should be available at a pharmacy. One brand of the Gentian Violet 1% solution is "Humco" and the one ounce bottle typically sells for slightly over $3. It is called an "Antiseptic First Aid Anti-infective". The Boric Acid powder in the 4 ounce size typically sells for about $3.25 and is usually in stock at the pharmacy. More information about this may be available updated at [url]www.ItsForTheAnimals.com[/url] Users of the Blue Power Ear Treatment have found that despite the alcohol, the dog will not object to even the first treatment. The Boric Acid Powder soothes the ear. The Gentian Violet Solution is an anti-infection agent, as it is a dye mixture that acts as a bactericide, fungicide, and anthelmintic (destroys worms). Remember, gentian violet will stain fur, clothing, etc. As for the source for Gentian Violet, it, along with all the other ingredients, as was previously mentioned, they should be available at a pharmacy, or may have to be special ordered. The Gentian Violet comes in small bottles, similar to iodine, not at all expensive and will provide enough to make gallons of the Blue Power Ear Treatment. A very easy method to make the formula is to poke a hole in the top of the cap of the bottle of alcohol, add the Boric Acid, and then the drops of Gentian Violet. The Blue Power Ear Treatment as detailed above appears to work well on any and all ear problems from mites to wax to canker. The success rate for this treatment is said to be 95-99%. Those who do not succeed have usually not done the treatment long enough or have not been regular about it. Dogs on the verge of ear canal surgery have been returned to normal with only the regular follow-up treatment to keep the ear healthy. If an infection seems to be remaining in the treated ear after the above course of treatment, may also be some Pseudomonas bacteria in the site. This can be eradicated by using a gentle flush of raw apple cider vinegar and water (warmed). Use 2 Tablespoons of vinegar to one cup of water, 2 x per week. They have found the Blue Power Ear Treatment to be effective for treating fungus-type infections on the feet and elsewhere on the dog, for cuts on dogs or people, and for hot spots. You may find other uses for this simple anti-infective agent. Remember it is for external use only and be careful not to get into the eyes. One gal let me know that her dog's ear problem responded only when the Gentian Violet was omitted. Another gal, Diane Whitehouse, a Poodle fancier, states: "First, the stuff has worked miracles for us, too! I'm so glad to know about it ... the recipe I was initially given years ago called for 16 drops of 2% Gentian Violet, rather than 1%. I've always mixed it that way, and passed that along to a couple of Poodle friends who did not have success with the recipe [for 1% Gentian Violet] on your web page. In both cases, adding the additional Gentian Violet resulted in success. She adds a helpful caution: "And.....my initial instructions also say "The vet must rule out a punctured ear drum before using The Blue Power Ear Treatment." The one Poodle friend who told me his Poodle reacted as though treatment was very painful took his girl to the vet and learned she did have a punctured ear drum." For those who find the Blue Power Ear Treatment successful, I have some suggestions. After your dog's ears are looking normal for a while, it really would be a good idea to find out what is actually causing the ear problem. As mentioned in the book, It's For The Animals! Natural Care & Resources., back when I was feeding commercial feed, my dogs' and cats' ears had quite a bit of that 'black gunk' in them. More than 20 years ago I'd been told by my holistic vet, Richard Kearns, DVM, that this was one of the body's ways of detoxifying itself. Sure enough, after being fed only fresh foods for a few months, that 'black gunk' virtually disappeared. Also, it's been my experience, and that of many others, to notice a favorable improvement in their dog's and cat's ears and overall health, when the following three supplements are added to the diet. These nutritional supplements are just added to the food and are excellent for us too! A note about the following recommended products: there is no financial affiliation between this author and any company mentioned. The products mentioned are simply ‘tried and true’ favorites, which I feel are superior to others for a variety of reasons. Three Important Considerations Related to Ear Problems: 1) Probiotics This is commonly referred to as intestinal flora 'normalizers', Acidophilus, Lactobacillus Acidophilus, and Bifidus. These are the friendly bacteria found in a healthy intestinal tract which are crucial for good health and proper absorption of nutrients. According to a recent study (Hamilton-Miller 1996), only 2 out of 13 products had what their label claimed in viable friendly bacteria. So, I buy only the refrigerated brands, either powder or capsules, and rotate the strain. Some of my favorites are: Ethical Nutrients, Flora Gen (in powder), and Natrens (in capsules). Nature's Way enteric-coated capsules are also good. The enteric coating ensures that the maximum number of the beneficial bacteria reach the small or large intestine where they are most effective. Some of the experts suggest that only one strain be taken at a time because they compete with each other. These products are found in the health food stores' refrigerated cases. 2) Digestive Enzymes To my knowledge, Prozyme Digestive Enzyme formula is the only digestive enzyme product with peer-reviewed scientific studies to prove that it increases the absorption of vital nutrients (up to a 71% increase), including EFAs (Essential Fatty Acids). I also add Pancreatin (any brand). It comes in a powder that is sprinkled on top of the food in the dish at dinnertime. First-time users may get a free 85-gram trial size by calling Prozyme at 800/522-5537, there's just a $5 shipping and handling charge. Incidentally, Prozyme has a money-back guarantee and has a human formula, TymeZyme (capsules), which my husband and I take with each meal. 3) Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs) Many years ago I was researching a problem that my husband had: excessive ear wax buildup (think: brown gunk). It turns out that ear wax accumulation is a symptom of a deficiency of EFAs. These types of good fats (EFAs) are critically important for our health as well as our animals, and must be provided in the diet. There are lots of types of EFAs and, to keep it simple here, understand that these fats/oils are NOT for cooking. In fact, they should be kept away from light, heat, and oxygen. Avoid partially hydrogenated fat and trans fats such as margarine. My favorite EFA is Omega Nutrition's certified organic, Hemp Seed Oil as it is said to be 'nature's perfectly balanced oil'. It contains omega-3 and omega-6 EFAs and the vital GLA (Gamma-Linolenic Acid) GLA is one of the omega-6 EFAs such as Borage Oil, Black Currant Oil and Evening Primrose Oil. Omega Nutrition's Organic Hemp Oil is cold-pressed in Canada and then shipped around the world. Other companies press seeds that have been sterilized (irradiated) and then pressed into oil, which is unacceptable to me. Another good organic EFA blend is Omega Nutrition’s Essential Balance and has the 1:1 Ratio of omega-6 to omega-3. I order the largest liquid size available and opt for 2nd day air delivery. Both products, and many more, are available from Omega Nutrition: [url]www.omeganutrition.com[/url] or call 800/ 661-3529. Their US office is located in Bellingham, WA, and for Canadians, in Vancouver, BC. Be sure to request their very informative "Product Book" and "Catalog 2000" which are free. Also, another very good organic EFA blend is Barlean's Omega Twin and available in the refrigerated case of most health food stores or you can call 800/ 445-3529 for the nearest distributor. The Ears and The Body Detoxifying Connection I suspect that the pesticide residue in the conventionally grown grains may very well be the culprit for what some folks refer to as a "grain allergy" in their dogs. Pesticides are just one chemical adversely affecting our companions (and us). Seriously consider feeding only organic food and supplements. For most of us, organic meat may not always be available or it is too expensive, and, therefore, human-grade quality is the next best choice. However, organic grains are readily available and the cost is only slightly higher, especially when buying in bulk. Since 1978, I’ve been following a holistic approach to health. In March of 1995, after reading Ann Martin’s article in Natural Pet magazine, “Does Your Dog Food Bark?, I completely eliminated commercially manufactured feed stuff. I can’t consider it food. Remember, most animals need this transition to fresh foods be made gradually. I also avoid exposure to chemicals, including flea/tick preparations, vaccinations, and heartworm drugs. Toxins can be chemicals which are:  Absorbed either through the skin -- as in topical flea/tick treatments, dips, shampoos or through the paws -- as with cleaning products, and pressure treated lumber  Inhaled --from room fresheners, indoor/outdoor pollution and outgassing ofnew carpeting.  Ingested -- from pesticide-laden food, heartworm drugs, antibiotics, or other medications.  Injected -- from vaccinations and otherdrugs. Be advised that all vaccine manufacturers' package inserts say: "Only healthy animals should be vaccinated". VACCINE1.HTMEven a rash, itchiness, or a slight infection means that an animal is NOT healthy and should NOT be vaccinated. Another factor contributing to ear infections may be all those vaccinations that the animals are receiving, unnecessarily. Consider the fact that vaccines contain deadly toxins such as mercury, aluminum and formaldehyde. Since 1994, my animals have NOT received those notorious annual “booster” vaccinations because I’ve learned that there is no scientific justification for them. By becoming educated and making the changes for the better, I know that it has helped them to be healthier and happier.  Some folks are recommending a liquid herbal product specifically formulated for companion animals: "Natural Ear Comfort" by BioPathics [url]http://www.biopathics.com/natural_ear.htm[/url] They are the manufacturers of the product which is so helpful for joints and connective tissue health, "Cartilade". I would appreciate hearing from folks who have found it to be effective.  Other people have been using Colloidal Silver (CS) with great success -- which is very dependent upon the particular brand or quality of CS. Some folks have seen immediate results with CS, whereas the Blue Power Ear Treatment may take several days to notice improvement. I would think that it would be better to warm the solution prior to putting it into an animal's ear. This can be accomplished by simply soaking the bottle in a bowl of hot water. The typical method is to use an eye dropper-full of CS in each ear to thoroughly coat the entire area every two hours, and you'll notice that the animal will no longer be shaking his or her head. Then, treat with half a dropper-full every two hours. Also, after applying the CS, it's recommended to wipe the ear with a wash cloth soaked in warm water (wrung out) and then repeat this an hour later. Treat twice a day for the first few days, then after improvement is noticeable, reduce the treatment to once a day, and later to once every other day. It's suggested that optimal results are obtained when CS is used frequently and in small doses. Caution: if you must dilute CS, use distilled water or well water. Tap water, typically contains chlorine and when combined with silver it creates silver chloride which is NOT to be used. Many people consider the CS available at the Health Foods Stores to be of inferior quality as it's not really true electro colloidal silver but a diluted liquid of silver protein. It's not a panacea, and will only be effective if it actually comes in contact with the viral, bacterial or fungal infection. Keep it refrigerated and if it gets cloudy, dispose of it. To obtain high-quality CS (total silver PPM will be between 5 to 15), one source is: Rich, e-mail: [email][email protected][/email] He provides a lot of information about CS and ordering it here: [url]http://home.kc.rr.com/richadams/cstrade.html[/url] Additional information about Colloidal Silver is here: [url]http://www.silverlist.com/[/url] Please let me know what has been most helpful for you. An annual wellness exam for our dogs is recommended during which blood can be drawn and the vaccine titers may be measured rather than have unnecessary revaccinations. For competent, reliable medical advice, it's always good to consult with a compassionate veterinarian who utilizes holistic modalities and is knowledgeable about nutrition in your area. To locate one in your area, contact: The American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association (AHVMA) [url]www.ahvma.org[/url] Our warm, loving companions depend upon us for their well-being. We owe it to them to make informed decisions. Hug your dogs for me! [/quote]

I have a couple of relatives in the states who are in their 70's, they have west nile virus and they are VERY ill from it. I think it is a very scary disease for older persons and and persons with diseases which affect their immune system.

My first suggestion to this person would be to immediately work to get the dogs immune system healthy. You could suggest the books previously posted by Matty for some recipe ideas for home prepared meals for dogs with suppressed immune systems. Advise the owner to cut back on the grains in the dogs diet, most dog foods are much too high in grains which can cause many problems. TDG would have ALOT more info on the topic of food :wink: I would also be adding more omega 3 fattys acids to the dogs diet. Good sources for omega 3's are sardines, wild salmon, ground flax seeds/ or flax oil, haddock, and cod, and gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), found in evening primrose, borage, and black currant seed oil. A combination of the Omega-3s and GLA seems to have the most potent effect. I would also give a vitamin E pill, I give my dogs 400 IU of mixed E topcopherols every other day. Vitamin is stored in the liver so an over dose is possible, although I have never heard of one. I have also found Hemp oil to be a wonderful source of omega 3,6 and 9 fatty acids. This person can prepared their own topical treatments for the irritated areas on the dog...a spritz can be made from a tea brewed from calendula flowers, spray on several times a day, directly to the lesion. Other herbs such as chamomile, yarrow , lavender , and mullein may also be added to the herbal brew. You could suggest to this person some ways to to improve the dogs immunity. Some people like to detoxify first. Then add herbal liver helpers such as dandelion root , and milk thistle seeds. Also try to return the gut to a normal flora by adding beneficial bacteria by adding probiotics to the dogs diet, also increase the dietary fiber in your dogs diet, I like to add ground flax seeds (organic only). Also try to balance the immune system using herbs such as echinacea (don't use for more than 3 weeks), or you can use Siberian ginseng. I add astralagus to my dogs food, I find this works wonders in building the immune system (I use it myself in the winter to ward of colds and flues, it works). Garlic is also a great anti viral, immunity boosting addition, just don't over due it. Its also a good idea to add immune enhancing supplements including vitamins C and A and zinc may also be helpful. I also find it beneficial to add a B-50 complex vitamin to my dogs food every other day. For a natural anti-inflammatory or cortisone-like herb try licorice root...this may enhance the adrenal gland and also take some of the itch away. A healthy immune system helps dogs deal with allergies. Some times over vaccinating a dog can add stress on the immune system as well making the immune system weak. A phone consult with Dr. Goldstein's office is a great start. His office numer in NY is 914-533-6066 and the website for great natural supplements is [url]www.earthanimal.com[/url] <http://www.earthanimal.com> . A good natural remedy is quercetin -- a bioflavonoid obtained from buckwheat and citrus fruit -- . This is a natural product available in most health food stores that appears to stabilize the cells of the immune system that release histamine, the mediator of allergic reactions. Its action is preventive rather than symptomatic, and so should be taken regularly. I have not heard of any one using this for dogs yet, so I would check with a holistic vet before thinking about using this. Some people suggest using stinging nettle plant. It will relieve allergy symptoms readily, and has no toxicity. Instead of side effects, you get bonus trace minerals. The best form to buy is a freeze-dried extract of the leaves, sold in capsules. Again, this is some thing I have heard of people using for severe auto immune disorders and allergies, so please have this person check with a holistic vet before administrating. Taking Benadryl or other antihistamines as a solution merely suppresses the allergic response. Regular use of them may actually perpetuate allergy and interfere with reeducation of the immune system. The problems this dog is experiencing are extreme, I would certainly try a holistic healing program with a certified holistic vet. If she is willing to spend a few bucks then she can bring this dog back to health. I have a friend who adopted a white Boxer with skin conditions just as bad as what this person is going through. She kept at it and healed the dog from the inside out instead of just treating the symptoms as most conventional vets do. She has had tremendous success and has a healthy happy boxer which she is not embarressed to take into the public any more. The dog was so raw and red and ribby looking that when she tried to walk the dog in public people would accuse her of neglect and abuse. :( I just wanted to add that my friends Boxers allergies are so severe that she was unable to feed a home prepared diet as the dog was constantly breaking out. She has had good luck with Californias natural dog food. Sorry for such a long post :lol: :wink:

Thank you TDG, I will contact monica segal for my friend. I just had eye surgery done so it will be a little while before I can get back to the vet clinic to get the ingredient list of the Waltham dog food. I think I can convince my friend to put her collie on a home prepared diet.