gooeydog

Picasso had a Dachshund :lol: And here's a whole list of past/present famous pit bull owners: [url]http://www.understand-a-bull.com/PitbullInformation/FamousOwners.htm[/url]

On Fox news channel at 8pm (now for east coasters), but it looks like it's going to be towards the end of the show, so even if you're in EST, there's time to tune in.

Any chance this could've been some sort of misdirected herding attempt? Hard to tell from your post how "serious" he was, so I thought I'd bring it up as a possibility.

Sheesh, things are just not going my way today. Yesterday Annie had a mild case of the runs, I figured it was probably from the chicken in their food the night before and gave her and Goo both some pumpkin, hoping to clear Annie up (seems to have worked) and head off any issues with Goo. Last night, there were two small piles of puke on the floor in my room, one with some grass in it, both from Goo. I was suspicious, but figured it was no big deal since she frequently gorges herself on grass, and sometimes it comes back up. Today, I was babysitting my cousin, and had Goo in the living room with us, she was in her "bomb shelter" behind a chair, and kept coming out to look at me. I kept shooing her back in, until I heard a soft [i]whine[/i] and looked over to see her shifting uncomfortably... OH :o That's what you WANT!!!.... stuck the baby in her playpen (where she screamed, spoiled little brat :roll: ) ran Goo outside, she puked again once we got down the steps, then a few minutes later took a runny poo. Same every hour or two for the rest of the morning, except she only puked once more, and the poo puddles became increasingly smaller. Around 2pm, when she was showing no signs of slowing down, I gave her some anti-poo meds, and they seem to have finally kicked in this evening, as she hasn't went in several hours. I'm hoping it's just from the food, and that she hasn't caught whatever Haley had a few weeks ago (GDV, I think it was, some sort of gastrointestinal inflammation, basically, the vets told us it just had to run its course, and gave us meds to calm her stomach). She's still acting her normal self, so hopefully by tomorrow, everything will be back to normal. I think I'm going to hold her food tonight, and maybe give her a bit more pumpkin, I feel bad, but don't want to set off a chain reaction. Obviously two oz of meat was too much after not having any for over a week, so I'm going to have to cut it back some more and work back up. I'm wondering now if I shoundn't just add in some pumpkin everytime I give any meat with their food, as a preventive measure?

Sounds good, thanks again :)

Thanks! We don't have a coffee grinder, so I'll try to pick up a cheap one for the eggshells, till then, I've made some progress with a crab mallet to crush the eggshells, then sifting them to keep back any larger pieces for more crushing... takes a while, but it works. They had 2 oz chicken today with their kibble, and I added in the powder, so we'll see how it goes. I actually had quite a bit more powder that I was crushing up, but when I was away a couple weekends ago, my mom thought it was ALL supposed to go into their food (made the mistake of leaving it sitting in the kitchen, and she thought it was cornmeal :o ) and they got all 10 eggshells :o . When I came home the next morning, I was wondering what all the little white specks were in their poo :oops: and was puzzled when my mom told me about putting all the "cornmeal" in their food, until I figured out what it was. I think most of it just passed through undigested (sure looked that way), so I just didn't feed anymore for a couple weeks to be sure it had all cleared out. As a side thought, do you know if something like oyster shells could be ground and used for calcium? Not really planning on finding out, but I know a few who have used it for other animals and it just got me wondering. The liver plan sounds good, but I'm curious as to how to get the other organs... never seen any of them (aside from yucky bleached out tripe, which they sure aren't getting) in stores, do you just go ask for it or what?

Hoping somebody can help me out with this, as usual, I'm a bit clueless as to how to work it out. The problem: Been feeding a bit of lightly cooked (poached, still a bit pink) chicken (occasionally fish) with my twos' meals a few times a week lately, and we've reached the point where I need to be adding calcium too with the meat (it's been under an ounce so far for Goo, and just a few pieces for Annie), but I'm running into a snag. I was planning on using eggshells as a calcium source, but I can NOT get these things crushed to a powder, no matter how hard I try. They've been dried out in the oven, and I was using one of those pulverizing things, but no luck. I either need to improve my egg crushing methods (help!?) or find another source of calcium (is it safe/effective to give store bought calcium supplements?) before I can move on. Next up, I bought livers to use as organ meat, once or twice a week? And it's ok to cook these same as the other meats? I don't know of any other organs on chicken, so suggestions there would be helpful too. For what it's worth, the dogs love getting "real meat" mixed in their food, so it's nice to see them so eager to gobble down their food.

Sheesh, I've missed all the Pushy news, but I'm so glad he seems to be doing better. I hope that he continues to improve, and that when his time does eventually come, it is as peaceful as you wish. I did want to add that reading this reminds me of our cat, who, about 18 months ago we nearly had PTS because he was rapidly declining in health, stumbling around, losing weight, etc. Had him in to be checked out, nothing. We all said our goodbyes, and my mom took him in to have it done, only to call several hours later and tell me he'd gotten a reprieve, the attending vet thought he had some sort of respiratory infection, and put him on antibiotics. He recovered, and is still going. He's thin, a bit feeble, and content to just lay around most of the time, but still has the same :evilbat: spirit as ever, so as long as he seems to be doing ok, he'll stay with us. Just wanted to let you know that sometimes when we think they've thrown in the towel, they turn around and prove us wrong, I hope it's the case for Pushy too!

A little tip that you may find helps in the defurring process, I do this with all our dogs, but especially the long haired ones. When you go to rinse the shampoo off, take a brush (for the non-smoothcoats, I use a slicker brush, for the smoothcoats, one of those rubber grooming mitts), and brush along with the water flowing to rinse. With each stroke, flip the brush up a bit at the end, so that any hair you've collected gets flicked out, and do the whole dog like that, concentrating on heavily coated areas. I get about a baseball sized clump of solid fur out of Casey (cocker) when I do this during shedding season, and even the shorter coated dogs release a good bit of fur.

[quote] I had an accidental dog pregnancy and I feel bad about that. [/quote] An "accident"? What did you expect when you had you intact, in heat bitch tied out in your yard, and as per your own posts on the matter, she and the other intact dog she was tied out with were "fighting off" strays that were coming into the yard to get to her? No, you had a dog pregnancy due to your own negligence and irresponsibility. I wasn't going to say anything regarding your new dog, but I have to agree with others that given your past here, this thread didn't exactly make it look like you'd made a change for the better. I also agree that if you think this puppy's mouthing, nipping, and other misbehavior are bad, you surely don't need an APBT, as many of them retain these lovely "puppy" traits well into adulthood.

Much as I feel for these people losing their dogs (and the dogs losing their homes), WHY would they keep their dogs in what they knew to be a perilous situation? If there were no safe way/place for me to keep my dogs in case of BSL, they would be out of there, either with me or some trusted person I knew could care for them until other arrangements could be made. It was these peoples' job to keep their dogs safe, and if not, their responsiblity to step up and at least give the dogs a decent end, not let some stranger come and haul them off to die in a shelter. I can understand that they might hope that if they played their cards right, they could hide them and no one would ever know, but is it worth their dog's life? Is it right that they might have had to lose their pet in order to keep them safe? No. But as much as they are victims, their dogs are even more so, because their owners did not take the actions needed to protect them.

[quote]"People have to call us and tell us if a dog attacks another dog, chickens or anything like that because once they get the taste of blood, they're going for something else," says Wells. [/quote] My own rant on this, as I've been dealing with it right now on my own street, and have in the past as well. There's a dog (pit x some stumpy short legged breed) a few houses down from us that is repeatedly left out to roam, and obviously has some defensive issues, as it barks at people, charges at them with its hackles up, and has more recently taken to nipping at peoples ankles while they walk down the street. Twice now, he's growled at me, once when he was in MY yard, the other when I was walking up the driveway at their neighbor's house (a friend of mine), and the other day I heard him barking, only to look outside and see him nipping at my cousin's ankles as he walked up our driveway... at the same time, my nephews were in the yard playing :o . Now, one of the little girls at the house took in a stray c@, and had it for a few days, then one day my friend asked where it had went, and the girl told her her brother didn't want it there, so he shot it and tossed it into the water, and I've heard other comments when walking by the house that make me reluctant to have them think I'm "out to get them". I originally planned to talk to the woman who lives there about the problem, but she's got a serious case of denial (insists that the dog's only problem is that "he doesn't like wheels"), and friendly suggestions (like saying "you really should keep him in the yard" as they apologize for him chasing my down the road barking) haven't worked. Now, how does this apply to AC? Well, when I called there after the dog was in my yard growling at me, the man who answered told me that they couldn't do anything unless A. I wanted to file a formal complaint, which would have my name, address, etc on it.... gee, why not list a recipe on it for "forever sleep" doggy treats (ie: poisoned meat in the yard) too? or B. The dog had bitten someone (after I just told the guy it had been nipping peoples legs :roll: ), I suppose it has to send someone to the hospital before they'll decide it's a bite. ey've been like this in the past when I've called about other dogs too, so I know it isn't an isolated event. Is it any wonder people don't bother reporting dog bites hen they get the runaround from AC, or fear retaliation from the people they're reporting? HF, You're right that that statement by AC is wrong and not helping matters. Are you writing to the news station regarding their story, or to officials about the attack? A few things you might point out if to officials: A. laws on owner responsibility- do you have any? If you do, they should be enforced, and the owners of this dog should BE prosecuted for negligence. If not, maybe they should consider passing some. The dogs should be PTS, too bad their owner was negligent, but it's not worth evaluating/tryign to rehab them when they already have one attack under their belt, and where would they go even if they were? B. Better education for AC, and if need be, more staff, so that all reports can be looked into. In addition, the community needs to be encouraged to speak up about dangerous dogs, not just hide from them. C. This attack showed that an array of dogs can bite, and seriously. BSL would not have helped this person much, if any, since A. it wouldn't have covered several of the dogs, and B. their owners were irresposible and likely would not have followed the BSL anyway. D. I don't remember what else I was going to say :oops: will probably post again later. And the media: A. Many breeds of dog will attack small animals... greyhounds are one of the most docile and gentle breeds, but many breeders/rescuers will warn that they can kill c@ts, especially in outdoor situations where the c@ts may run and further their respemblance to prey. Same goes for dog aggression, look at any terrier breed.

I don't know how I missed this thread, but most everything I could say already has been, so I'll just wish you and Jesse both good luck that he continues to improve.

Few things to think about, sorry they're so vague: - Several national level veterinary and training groups are adamantly against BSL due to its innefectiveness and unfairness, and have made their thoughts publicly known... might be useful to look around for statements on that, even if you have to email them to get them (I can't for the life of me remember which they are, too many acronyms for me to keep straight!). - Check out this book for stats: [u]Fatal Dog Attacks[/u] By: Karen Delise . Has in depth info on fatal dog attacks over a wide range of time, there's probably a good bit of info there you can use. - CDC themselves state on their DBRF page that no one breed can be held responsible for dog attacks, since many owner factors carry more weight. - Michael Bryant, who proposed Ontario's BSL, couldn't even accurately identify the breed of dog he was so intent on keeping away from his citizens for their own safety... now, how are you supposed to protect people from something if you don't even know what it is yourself? There is a video clip of this somewhere online, but I don't have the link... there are some anti-BSL sites that may have it though, or if you post about it on an APBT board, I'm sure someone does. - BSL is expensive to enforce (when they were going to pass BSL her ein Baltimore, they were looking at upwards of $75,000 per year just to enforce a pit bull ban), and ineffective (In PGCounty, they've seen an upsurge in large guard breeds, like Presas, Neos, as well as more traditional breeds like Rotties since the ban. It hasn't prevented several horrific maulings from taking place in the area, either... two tht immediately come to mind are a child attacked by an AmBull with puppies, and a baby nearly killed by a Dachshund (not entirely sure the second was actually in PGC). PGC has recently been considering repealing the BSL there, since it has been shown to be ineffective and costly. If you want to focus more on this, you might try contacting Adrianne Lefkowitz (sp?) with the ADOA ( [url]http://www.adoa.org[/url] ), as she's in SOMD and has tons of firshand experience with the ban, and is one the commitee for trying to get it repealed. That's about all I can think of right now, hope it helps a bit.

Sure doesn't look it to me :lol: We get the same line with Haley, I just ask them, "does she look to you like she [i]feels[/i] handicapped?" Usually that at least gets them thinking, though some are never able to look past it. They want to imagine how they'd feel if it was them, and don't understand that dogs don't function like humans, so "disability" isn't even a concept for them. Adults are usually much worse than kids, who are generally very open minded and accepting of her as she is, though they always have questions en masse.

Glad to hear she's doing so well, and she does look comfy with whichever of your boys that is on the couch with her (I also never really noticed how similar the SP and Dobe's builds looked before, or maybe it's just me). I actually started thinking about her the other day when Haley dove down the steps and about ripped my arm off my body :lol: so it's good to see that you've gotten her leash walking worked out, and that she shaped right back up when she moved back in [size=1](though I think maybe because she wants to be a permanent resident!)[/size]. She really looks great, we need to see more pics of her and the rest of your crew! Our horde is doing pretty good, thanks for asking, though as a group I'd define them more as :evilbat: than :angel: . Haley's been overran by excess energy (which means excess destructiveness and orneryness) at being on limited exercise, Goo has been coming up with as many "spiffy tricks" as possible to drive me nuts (like when we took her on long lead to run at the school field the other night, she decided it was time to graze and refused to run anywhere at first, then bolted from clump of grass to clump of grass as we ran all over like idiots trying to get her to chase us :lol: ). Annie crash and burned into the concrete slab of the patio chasing her "spot" (the big plastic ball) around the yard the other day, and has a big skid mark on her snout, but other than that, she, Joey, and Casey are all good too. I suppose I can't complain, things sure don't get boring around here :lol:

I'm sorry to hear about this court, but at the same time glad that Laurel is with you, as I know she'll still have a great life. She really is lucky to have found such a home, as I know her fate wouldn't be the same if she were still hunting. Good luck with her.

I haven't been around here as much as usual... how's she doing with fitting back into your household?

I also agree that a prong collar is not warranted here, and might make things worse (especially since many people need to be shown how to properly fit/use one, and without that, they may do more harm then good even in the best situations). In addition to what's been said already, I'd put the dog on a hard "work for your food" schedule. No more free feeding. Measure out her food for the day, and split it into several portions, one for each training session (the more sessions you can fit into the day the better, as many short sessions are better than less longer sessions). When you're ready for a session, take one portion of kibble, and use the kibbles as training treats. If she doesn't want to pay attention and work for you, let her go, she'll get hungry before long, and since the ONLY outlet for food will be YOU, she'll have no choice but to comply with your rules. During this time, allow no access to rawhides, toys, chews, etc except for a couple times through the day while you're interacting with her as well (like, take her out and play catch, then toy goes up, I'd cut of chewies and rawhides completely right now, given the nature of her problem). Though this she'll learn that everything she desires and needs comes directly from you, and she'd better do as you say or miss out. This alone will take her down a few pegs in the attitude department, and will also give you a strong reinforcer for training, since if she blows you off, she'll be going hungry until the next session, something she surely won't want. Keeping in mind that I'm not an expert, and have only dealt with mild resource guarding in my own dogs, more severe in a couple others that I didn't live with, here's something I've used in dealing with resource guarders. I would have basic obedience (sit or down, stay, come) fairly reliable before moving on to the following, if you're making her work for her food, it shouldn't take to long to get them down. To work on the resource guarding, you want to start with low value objects, things she's only mildly interested in. Then when she's hungry (maybe do a training session that morning, then hold off until evening for this), give the object, then offer a REALLY delicious treat (liver, rollover, hot dogs, cheese are all good options) in exchange, telling her "off" or whatever word you choose. She should drop whatever she has, and feed her a few pieces of your treat as you pick up the object. If you have a problem with her trying to go back to her object, then tell her "off", treat her, put her in a sit, take the object, then treat her again. Keeping working at this with low value objects, until it's become second nature to spit out whatever she's got when you say "off", and she shows no desire to try and swipe it back, or distress at it being taken. Then move to a slightly higher value object, still with HIGH value treats and a hungry dog. Work through the whole process again, as she won't immediately grasp that "off" applies to these objects as well, dogs don't generalize well. Then on to higher value objects, same deal. There are several books available just on this subject, though I can't remember a single one right now, if you search for "canine resource guarding books", you could probably turn some up.

[quote]Saying they are not good with family would be unfair to the breed, and antithetical to one of the United States most authoritative Lhasa organizations.[/quote] Since you put so much emphasis on what breed organizations have to say about their breed, the following quotes may interest you... From the UKC, second largest all breed registry, first registry to accept the American Pit Bull Terrier: [i]"APBTs make excellent family companions and have always been noted for their love of children.... The APBT is not the best choice for a guard dog since they are extremely friendly, even with strangers. Aggressive behavior toward humans is uncharacteristic of the breed and highly undesirable." [/i] Now, to address the other mistruths in your posts. In the interest of simplicity, I'll do this bit by bit. [quote]I'm so sorry, but this breed is outlawed in some countries and cities in the world[/quote] Yes, as are dozens of other breeds. Care for a small list? Germany (actually all these dogs are simply restricted): American Staffordshire Terrier Pitbull Terrier, Staffordshire Bullterrier, Bullterrier , Mastino Napolitano , Mastino Espanol , Bordeaux Dogge , Dogo Argentino , Fila Brasileiro , Roman Combat Dog, Chinese Combat Dog, Bandog , Tosa Inu Akbas , Berger de Brie (Briard) , Berger de Beauce (Beauceron) , Bullmastiff , Carpatin , Dobermann , Estrela Mountain Dog , Kangal , Caucasian Ovtcharka , Middle Asian Ovtcharka , South-Russian Ovtscharka , Karakatschan , Karshound , Komondor , Kraski Ovcar , Kuvasz , Liptak (The Goral's Dog) , Maremmo , Mastiff , Mastin de los Pirineos , Mioritic , Polski Owczarek Podhalanski , Pyrenees Mountain Dog , Raffeiro do Alentejo , Rottweiler , Slovensky Cuvac , Sarplaninac , Tibetan Mastiff , Tornjak, some places there restrict all dogs over 40 lbs and a certain height. USA: No one state has completely banned specific breeds, but individual cities will ban or restrict any number of supposed "dangerous" breeds, including but not limited to: pit bulls, German Shepherds, Doberman Pinschers, Rottweilers, Chow Chows, Akitas, Sharpeis, Huskies, Malamutes, Great Danes, Mastiffs of varying types Italy: 92 breeds total are restricted, including Border Collies, St. Bernards, Corgis, pit bulls, Newfoundlands, among others. The only thing proved by a breed being banned or restricted in an area is that lawmakers enjoy spending taxpayers' money on ineffective laws rather than actually seeking to solve the problem at its root. [quote]It also has the largest incidence of human biting.[/quote] No. I'm unable to remember where there were actual dog bite stats, but I know Labrador Retrievers, German Shepherds, and several small breed dogs ranked higher than pit bulls in non-fatal dog bites in all the data I've seen on it. "pit bulls" did have the highest or second highest incidence of human fatality over a 20 yr span, but considering that in the most commonly referred to DBRF stats, 3 or 4 different breeds and any dog that resembles those breeds are lumped into one "pit bull dog" category, you cannot accurately deem that the APBT breed was responsible for all those bites. That is like blaming the Malamute breed for all attacks made by big fluffy dogs. It is inaccurate and irresponsible to report such mistruths as fact.

Don't use the stones (bummer I know), they heat up to quickly from the friction on the nail. Instead get a pack of the sandpaper bands, a medium grit. I think I have the same power dremel as you, and here's how I use it... Level 3- Chewing through the tip of the bigger dogs' nails, and occasioanlly if they're really long, I'll use it to work away a bit of the nail. It tends to heat up the nail pretty quickly though at that speed, so passes are much shorter than at lower speeds (like 1 or two second on average). Rarely use it on the smaller dogs, unless one of them has super hard nails, and even then, never use it on any dog when I'm close to the quick. Level 2- I use this to grind back the nails on all the dogs, right up until I'm close to the quick. I'll use it steady for 2-3 seconds on each nail initially, then switch to quick swipes or to level one when I get really close to the quick. Level 1- This one I use if I'm really close to the quick, and at one or two seconds per nail, or just quick swipes if I'm really really close. I also use this speed to round out the edges and to bring the bottom of the nail flush and without any sharp edges (with some dogs, the quick curves down, so you have to be careful doing this with them). I don't use levels 4 or 5 at all with the dogs. With the five dogs (2 large, 2 small, 1 medium, and the two large ones get done weekly), a band usually lasts at least 2 months, so a pack would last you quite a while, and they're not expensive at all. The dremel will pick up a lot of grime from the dog's nails, so I dismantle the bit and clean it, as well as open up where the carbon brushes are and get out any nail dust/fur that's in there about every month or two. ETA: forgot you had long haired dogs as well... don't forget to keep their fur out of the way, even at the lower speeds, it'll hurt if it gets caught. Common sense I know, but figured I'd throw it out as a reminder.

Sorry it took me so long, I spent all day preparing for a test I thought I had in my class tonight, but turns out it's not til thursday anyway, a whole day wasted :roll: I'm afraid I can't be of much help anyway since the harnesses I got are not anti-pull harnesses, and are actually made to allow/encourage the dog to pull, the opposite of what you're looking for. Both of my two are trained to walk nicely on flat collars, and when I want extra control (since both can be dog aggressive, there are times when I like the additional control of a training collar) or am expecting them to act less disciplined than normal, I use a prong collar. Part of the confusion that you've seen may be because the harness in the picture shown is a regular walking harness, and in most cases will not stop a dog from pulling, and may even encourage it, since the dog can lean their body into the harness more easily than with a collar. As far as I know (and I just checked the site of the makers of the Halti, nothing there either), the Halti head collar is the only product they manufacture under the Halti name. They do sell a "Holt harness", which may be a no pull harness, there wasn't a pic or description. It could also be that whoever you spoke to was suggesting you use the head collar as a harness, which can be done with small dogs, though I don't know it'd stop a dog from pulling like a harness intended for that. I tried Goo's Halti on Annie as a harness, and was not impressed with the way it worked, the nose loop goes around their neck, which I did not like since the nose loop constricts (though it didn't seem to do it to the point of constricting their throat, I think there are better designs available). There are several brands and styles of no-pull harnesses available. The first type, which has been around longer, has a neck "collar" and straps which are ran under the dog's chest (between their legs) from the collar to a point where they meet and are connected to the leash. The dog pulls, and the straps constrict, pulling their legs/chest and making it uncomfortable/difficult for them to pull. The Sporn harness ( [url]http://sporn.com/[/url] ) is this style. The second type is newer, and has only been on the market now for a year or two. It has a girth and another strap that runs from the girth around the front of the dog's chest. There is a ring in the center of the chest strap, to which the leash is attached. The concept here is that you can lead the dog's chest, and the rest of it will follow. The Sense-ation ( [url]http://www.softouchconcepts.com/[/url] ) harness and Easy Walk harness ( [url]http://www.gentleleader.com/pages.cfm?id=74[/url] ) are both examples of this type of harness. I'm not a fan of relying on any collar or harness simply to prevent a dog from doing a behavior, but they can all have their place in actively training a dog.

Congrats :) I'd start with the Dachshund breed club in the US (I have absolutely no idea if there are breed clubs in Mexico, if there are, then definitely try them as well), maybe they can help you find a breeder down there. If not, you may be lucky enough to find a breeder in the states willing to work with you and ship a dog after seeing that you would provide a great home. Dachshund Club of America [url]http://www.dachshund-dca.org/[/url] Their breeder referral pages (now, just because a breeder is listed there doesn't necessarily mean they're a good breeder, but it give you something to start with, and you can always narrow down the field with your own qualifications) [url]http://www.dachshund-dca.org/Kennelads.html[/url] There's more info on Mini Dachshunds here: [url]http://www.dachshund-nmdc.org/[/url] including some info on health problems in the breed. and more breed info here: [url]http://www.dachshund.org/[/url] And just in case, here are some rescue groups as well, if you have a hard time finding a breeder nearby or who will ship out of country, maybe one of the rescue groups will be willing to work with you or may even know of a dog in your area in need of a home, worth a try anyway. [url]http://www.drwp.net/[/url] [url]http://www.dachshund-dca.org/Rescue%20folder/rescue.html[/url] [url]http://www.drna.org/[/url] [url]http://www.c2cdr.org/index_adoptioninfo.html[/url] [url]http://www.almosthomerescue.org/[/url] TDG also gave you excellent advice, the breed is very overbred right now, and a lot of poor tempered/unhealthy dogs are being put out as a result, so it pays to research and take your time in turning every stone before making a decision.

[quote name='Lucky Chaos']You can't actually tell me the dog above could look like this: ADBA "GR CH I" ADBA ACE" Rebels Red Ace" DNA-p, TT [img]http://www.apbtconformation.com/ADBA-shape-reda.jpg[/img] [/quote] Just wanted to point out one thing, this dog is a UKC dog too, and has shown successfully in UKC, just not in ADBA shape. Same dog, same conformation, just a few less or more pounds. You can see more of him here: [url]http://www.victorinoskennel.com/ACE/ACE1.HTML[/url]

Congrats on the future pup :) I will second Dani's concerns that a gamebred type dog may be too much dog for you given your experience with the breed and what you want to do with the dog. Should the dog become dog aggressive (even only slightly so), there is a big difference between simply having or handling a dog aggressive dog and wanting to do dog sports with that dog, and that is where experience will come into play. It's not so much a matter of simply being able to hold onto a dog aggro dog, it's more a matter of being able/willing recognize what situations are going to be appropriate for the dog and the physical/mental ability to manage the dog should you find that a situation you thought the dog could handle is in fact not one they can. That only comes with experience, and your bound to make mistakes along the way which could prove to be more serious with a more "high power" dog. You may have no problems with it, but make sure you're as prepared as you can be before jumping in to it. I know you said you wanted a smaller, more traditional dog, but the grandsire of these resulting pups was 65 lbs, which makes it possible as well that any dog you get may be closer to his size than to their parents. Not a huge concern for you, I'm sure, but there are other breeders breeding "small" APBTs (and staffs which actually look like they can work) that fall under the 45-50 lb mark, which your pup may end up being anyway (and many do health testing as well, if that's something you want). One final thought, you might try joining the bull breed agility group on yahoogroups, I'm sure a few people there have experience with these things (breeder dogs, dog aggression, etc), and can give you more to look into. AAP, people only have what they see on a website to base their opinions on, and for many people, what they see there is not impressive. You have degraded numerous other breeders based on what you see on websites, so you look hypocritical jumping on others for doing the same as you have in the past. They have as much right to voice their opinions as you do, and have.