Guest Anonymous Posted March 5, 2003 Share Posted March 5, 2003 Are Halti's and Gentle leaders the same? Is there a particular one that works better/fits better than the other? Do you have any links on using them for obedience training? Do you use clickers and halti's at the same time or onbe or the other? Do you have any links for clicker training and other purely positive training methods? What about links on curbing dog aggression? Yes the links are for me and my dogs. I already now about the Jerk and pull method and using a pinch collar but I think that those methods are to harsh for some of my dogs I would like to find a way to positively train them using a ball or treats or a halti etc.. I don't know much about training using any of theose methods and I thought you guys would please answer me I am really trying to learn and i don't know where to start. Also I have some more questionds: 1. How do you teach the dog not to eat the crates they are crated in? Some of you mentiuoned before that if they were properly crate trained they would not do that how do you "Properly" crate train them? 2.For those of you who have competed in obedience,did you start competing at the first levels while your dog was learning and advance while teaching the dog or did you first fully train the dog enough to get an advanced title and then start competing? 3.There are no UKC or ADBA or IWPA weight pulls here in AZ and no UKC obedience does anyone know how to get a local club started? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DogPaddle Posted March 5, 2003 Share Posted March 5, 2003 Haltis and GLs are different. GLs are more adjustable so if you have a growing dog this may be better, however my personal experience with them is that they do not release the tension on the muzzle as easily as a halti but I could have just had a bum GL. As far as I know you can use a clicker with any other training method. Some of the dogs in my obedience class are on haltis but still require treats to not fall behind their owner on the heeling excercises so you could certainly use a clicker in that situation. Dog aggression is tricky and may require a dog behaviourists assistance but postive reinforcement/clicker training may be a good start. You will almost certainly want to work on your watch/look command (and of course have your NO command down perfectly) and then slowly socialize the dog more and more. As for crate training: Start the dog off slow. Feed them in their crates so the crate is a positive place. Make the crate available to the dog as much as possible, leave the door wide open and leave the dogs bedding in there if it has any, praise the dog if it enters the crate at any point for any reason. Ensure that the crate is only large enough for the dog to sit, lie down, stand up or turn around - this encourages them not to mess in the crate and also encourages them to sleep in the crate. After the dog thinks the crate is an ok thing start by putting the crate in the living room with you and put the dog in with a special treat like a kong stuffed with something and close the door, stay right beside the dog and only leave them in for 5 min to start, gradually work up the time till you are at about half an hour. Always remove the special treat when the dog is not in the crate and give it to him/her when he is in the crate. If possible never let the dog out of the crate while it is fussing - let it out when it is calm and good (even if there is only a few seconds of this if you have a fussy dog.) Do not praise the dog on letting it out, only when you put it in or while it is quiet in the crate. If the dog fusses the best method is too ignore it, however, if it continues to much for you to bear or if it is hurting itself or the crate you can correct by either smacking your hand on the crate to make a startling noise or if this is ineffective lift one end of the crate 1cm or so off the ground and drop - do not give verbal commands if possible, your dog may be attention seeking and you don't want to reward it. After the dog fusses very little while in the crate with you present start just leaving the room for a bit, maybe just long enough to get a drink from the kitchen or something then begin to gradually increase the amount of time the dog is crated and cannot see you, try not to return to the dogs view while its fussing if possible. If biting persists try bitter apple on the crate are a squirt gun of water in extreme cases - only apply when the dog is chewing/biting at the bars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 5, 2003 Share Posted March 5, 2003 I personally like GL's better then Haltis... but that's cuz I have a dog that just LOVES to chew on nylon! :o I had to use a chain leash for about a year when I had to take her for walks and didn't have the time to properlly train her. I started training her not to chew in lessons, then gradually into her walks... see with the Halti, since it DOES give off more slack around the muzzel, Hazel was able to slip her mouth into it, and grind her teeth. The GL prevents her from doing this. HOWEVER, if you have an Aggressive dog, it isn't always best to use either of these. We discussed this before when I posted about Hazel a while back. Head Halters can easily slip off, and if a dog is lunging, it can hurt them a lot! If your going to use these, make sure that when around anything that could trigger your dog's aggression, you have a firm hold on their collar, NOT the GL or Halti. I have writen aritcals about dog aggression, and have posted links and books at my website. All information comes from a reasonable resource too. (Since geocities doesn't normally let links get posted, you may have to retype the URL into your Address bar)[url] http://www.geocities.com/fly_n_woof/aggression.html[/url] I have more links I think somewhere at home, but since I'm at school, I have to wait to get them, sorry... when I get home I will try to post them ASAP! (about the Crating, I agree with everything DP posted, so I don't think there's much more to say) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mouseatthebusstop Posted March 6, 2003 Share Posted March 6, 2003 I have tried them all, did not work we are now back on a normal coller with me doing a little tug on the lead when he starts to pull. I think it might be working :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bk_blue Posted March 6, 2003 Share Posted March 6, 2003 I used a Halti with BK for a little while because he was a horrid puller on a chain, he would gasp and puff like he was being throttled to death and because he is so strong it was hard to control and correct him. He hated the Halti, but it made him stop pulling. Then we started obedience and while working together with the correction chain we both understood how it worked a lot better and now he is manageable (not perfect but ok) on the correction chain. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowdogs Posted March 6, 2003 Share Posted March 6, 2003 I have 2 siberian huskies and as you know they love to pull. The halti was the best investment I made. Before hand I used to have harnesses on them and they would pull and I would be sore the next day from having to jerk them back and just hold on to them. Now I have the halti and I can hold them with one hand and I can take both of them on a walk together and control them at the same time. Something I used to not be able to do. I used to have to take 2 walks so they each would get a turn. I think it is worth a try if you have not tried it. I have recommended it to alot of poeple that have dogs that pull or are uncontrollable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marble Posted March 6, 2003 Share Posted March 6, 2003 i just wanted to thank you all for the information, dresden has been a real pain on the leash. first it was a nice collar, then a choke chain, then pinch collar (which i still feel is more gentle than a choke chain if used properly), these all have been useful for a time but even with all the right turn, left turn, circle bit she still tries to pull way too much........i swear i'm doing my best but she is so stinking stubborn- and getting pretty big. somtimes it just seems like nothing works....... are all haltis the same ? any advice for buying one ? THANKS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 6, 2003 Share Posted March 6, 2003 Okay, first of all before everyone jumps on the Head Halter Band Wagon, I want to say one thing... [b]They should be used WITH training, and not as a curb from training! You should NOT have to use a head halter for the rest of your dog's life![/b] Alright, with that said, keep talking... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gooeydog Posted March 6, 2003 Share Posted March 6, 2003 [quote name='laduenda'] 1. How do you teach the dog not to eat the crates they are crated in? Some of you mentiuoned before that if they were properly crate trained they would not do that how do you "Properly" crate train them? [/quote] The idea behind good crate training is for the dog to [b]like[/b] being in the crate. To do this, you want good things to always happen in the crate. Things like eating (feed the dog in it's crate), special toys/treats, extra praise, etc should always happen when the dog is in it's crate. This way, it will look forward to going in there. Make sure they get plenty of exercise before you crate them, as not getting enough exercise is a major contributor to boredom and destructive behaviors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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