Smooshie

This article was printed in the Tampa Tribune today..... Airline Institutes A Profiling Policy Published: Aug 19, 2002 Last month a dog got loose from its crate in the cargo hold of an American Airlines flight and chewed through some of the plane's wiring. The chewing by the 68-pound pit bull resulted in backup radio and data communications equipment failing as the airplane approached New York's John F. Kennedy International Airport. As a result, the airline will no longer allow certain large dog breeds on its airplanes. Thus American becomes the first airline to implement a strict profiling policy. Granted, the profiling is being done on canines, not humans, but it is nonetheless a policy that discriminates. So far the Federal Aviation Administration has not opposed the action, but predictably, some dog owners are outraged. Other airlines have similar guidelines on the size of animals they will transport. Some won't carry any animals at all. What the ``no big dogs'' policy acknowledges is that certain animals with certain backgrounds are more prone to do harm than others. At a time when humans must submit to ``random'' checks, that is a point worth keeping in mind.

Speaking of German Boxer standards.....I was just recently on an Agility site that had pics of German bred Boxers competing ....I noticed that not one of them was docked...they all had full tails!...I wonder if this is becoming the standard there,or if it has always been that way??? I wonder if its acceptable in conformation shows too, or just in obedience/agility Boxers? Its interesting...they look like a totally different breed with a TAIL :D

he is SO adorable!!! I saw one in PetSmart today...couldn't have been more than 10 weeks old....looked just like the one in the pic.They aren't as wrinkly when they become adults though are they?

:lol: .....oh geez, call me sadistic, but NOW I can't get the mental image of " poor Granny stuffed under a bush at the roadside" out of my head Thanks Roo :wink:

[quote name='hazelhover']I recall seeing a black and white boxer, same as a fawn and white in markings... He was a sleek looking dog... but that was some time ago. Is this not a standard color or is it something genetic?[/quote] Various shades Fawn and Brindle(with white markings not to exceed one third of their body) are the only standard coat colors.....Whites and Checks are common ,but aren't recognized as an accepted color. "Black" boxers nowadays are referred to as "reverse brindles" ,meaning that the black brindle striping is so heavy that you can't see the fawn base coat,giving the impression of an all black boxer.Supposedly when these dogs are standing in direct sunlight you can see the striping pattern,but there ARE breeders who claim that they have pure black boxers with no brindling,whatsoever.... at least thats what I've read..... :wink:

I think that owners should be made to take accountability for the actions of their dogs, and the consequences for offending OWNERS should be harsher.If more dog owners had to face jail time for their dog getting loose and mauling someone then maybe people would become more responsible,or just not own pets at all (and there are definately some people who shouldn't!) I also agree totally with Jacsmom....all potential dog owners should be closely screened.That seems to be the problem with most millers and backyard breeders...they don't seem to care where their pups end up,and with who,as long as they get cash in their pocket. Any responsible breeder would at least QUESTION prospective buyers...and most ask for vet references. I think the breed rescues have got it right......when I adopted my Boxer, I had to go thru a written application...then a telephone interview...THEN a home visit (plus provide vet references,and info on any current or previous pets I had)..and Loki (my Boxer) had to have a temperament evaluation and socialization with other animals and kids BEFORE I could bring him home.The entire process took about a month from start to finish. Before we were referred to Boxer Rescue,my husband and I had been looking at local shelters for a dog,and I was SHOCKED at how little screening some of THEM actually do.We inquired about a Boxer/Pit mix at one shelter......they couldn't give me ANY info on his temperament (even though he had been there for three weeks),and their only prerequisite for adopting him was that I had a fenced in yard. The application form was barely a page long ,and asked for no personal references or ownership history at ALL. Apparently they just hand over these dogs to anyone that will take them (scary). I know that a lot of shelters are run by volunteers,but so are most breed rescues, and THEY take the time to screen.Sheesh! If more shelters were required by law to check out the adoption applicants ,there would probably be far fewer dogs ending up BACK in the shelter,or worse....injuring/killing someone. Just my .02 :-? ........

[quote name='bk_blue']:lol: read this before but it's still funny! How'd you get your Boxer animation?? It's cool.[/quote] Thanks bk......I found the animations here: [url]http://www.buffalocity.net/brody/animation/[/url] they're pretty much ALL Boxers though....

I think its sick that some (apparently money hungry) breeders are capitalizing on breed faults and selling them as supposedly exotic variations of the breed. The same thing has happened with white boxers. some unethical BYB's and Puppymillers try to pass them off as RARE ...and then elevate the price because the dog is so "valuable" :roll: In reality, almost 30 % of Boxers are born white, so they aren't unusual at all. Good breeders sell them as pets (with a spay/neuter contract).Fortunately ,white Boxers don't seem to have the health deficiency's that white Dobes do (white Boxers generally aren't "Albino"). However they ARE a little more sensitive to the sun,and there is speculation that a higher percentage of them are hearing impaired.Bottom line is they should NOT be used for breeding,as they are not accepted under the breed standard,so it does nothing for the betterment of the breed. I'm with Sash...the ones that are born inadvertently should be loved and cared for,but the bloodline should not be furthered just to make a buck :x

I'm in total agreement with newfiemom on this one....it wouldn't really BE the same dog (personalitywise) so why bother??? Now in the same respect, if it was a SHOWDOG that had perfect conformation according to the breed standard, I guess there WOULD be a definate benefit to cloning....but wouldn't that essentially be considered cheating??? :-? Anyhow, I voted No

<<And what would you do in a foreign country if your dog passed away and you had to go home? >> [color=red][b]Is there some law against disposing of your dog PROPERLY if he passes away in a foreign country??[/b][/color] Who knows if the dog was stolen from the show grounds and hidden by someone who did not know it might die left in its crate? >> [color=red][b]Ummmmm....If the dog was STOLEN don't you think the owner of such a valuable show dog would have REPORTED IT MISSING???[/b][/color] <<There seems to be to me a lot of different thoughts on this other than that the owner was a bad person. >> [color=red][b]I'm sure the proper authorities are following up on every possible lead,but you have to admit,the owner DOES seem to have some explaining to do...dontcha think???[/b][/color]

LMAO@"lolloping tongue"....he is so RIGHT!...I think the only time Loki's tongue is IN his mouth is when he's sleeping!! :wink: hmmmmmm <looking at animation> me thinks there should be slobber flying in all directions too...purely for accuracy's sake :lol:

[quote name='Anonymous'][quote name='K'][quote name='working koolie']Why doesnt nice guest get a name so they dont have to be lumped in with the rude guest :roll:[/quote] Hear, Hear!!! Could "nice guest" and "amazing amounts of infomation guest" and "amusing guest" get a name please, please, please :)[/quote] Not interested in getting one at all. I wonder if you really think you can tell who is who or how many of the 'members' here have more than one identity. People who need identities take on their fake names happily - people who don't feel like they need one don't. I find it pretty interesting that the first thing a newbie does is complain - not my idea of how to win friends and influence people. I mean honestly in real life if you walked into a group of new people and said "Hi I don't know any of you and I'm new here but I already know I really don't like this people in your crowd who have this 'name'" do you really think you would find the people all friendly to you?[/quote] Geez Guest, I guess we don't ALL read Dale Carnegie in between leaving judgemental posts for the masses :roll: I don't particularily care WHAT name people use on here, be it "Guest",a fake (as you call it) username,or if they claim to be Santa Claus....as long as they express their questions and/or opinions in a polite, objective manner...I answer them back in a polite,objective manner. Just as YOU say we "new" members lump all guests together in a negative fashion and treat them poorly,there are certain "Guests" on here that seem to be out for nothing more than to antagonize and criticize every member of this forum that posts a thread.This makes everyone leery of ALL "Guests"...Its a shame :( Is there really any need for all this Drama??? This is a DOG forum for pete's sake :roll:

Ralph, "Guest" pretty much nailed it on the head (IMO). He's lonely for his littermates! Below is an excerpt from an article on crate training taken from the "ALL ABOUT DOGS" website (its the guideline I used when I crate trained Loki)....pay particular attention to the section called "First Night at Home" It pretty much reinforces "Guest's" suggestion,but goes into greater detail... CRATE TRAINING YOUR PUPPY OR ADULT DOG By P. Kalbaugh <Setting The Rules From The Beginning If your puppy whines when you first put him in his crate it is probably because he would rather be snuggled up close to you the way he was with his littermates. If you allow the puppy access to your lap, bed, couch or chair when you first get the puppy then it will be harder to eliminate these behaviors as the puppy grows up. Think of what the adult size of your dog will be and decide if you have room in your lap, bed, etc. for the the adult dog. You must decide before you bring the puppy home what the "rules" will be and then stick to them. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- POSITIVE ASSOCIATIONS Crate training should all be done positively with no negative associations. When you first bring the puppy home from the breeder, have the crate ready and comfortable for the puppy. I put a towel or a washable pad in the crate, possibly a pillow so it is an inviting area for the puppy. (My dogs crates are as comfortable and inviting as my own bed!) I get a small yummy treat (small piece of raw hot dog works well) and allow the puppy to sniff it and then lure the puppy into the crate with the treat. When the puppy goes into the crate to get the treat and explore the new area I just leave the door open and let him come out as he wishes. I don't force the pup into the crate and I don't make him stay in there the first several times. I then repeat putting a treat in the crate, allowing the puppy to go in on his own for the treat. I do this several times and praise the puppy gently while it's in the crate and associate a word or phrase for going in the crate. My word association is "kennel up". I use the word association AS I'm putting the treat into the crate and the puppy is following it in. Do this about five times and then quit for awhile. Repeat this proceedure several times the first day. Closing The Crate Door When the puppy is going in after the treat comfortably and when the puppy has just finished playing and piddling and is tired, lure the puppy into the crate with the treat as you have before only this time close the door. I also put a new toy in the crate at this time. Something the puppy hasn't seen before and something that is interesting and will keep his attention for a few minutes. After I close the door, I sit on the floor in front of the crate and talk to the puppy if necessary. If the puppy cries or whines, I put my fingers through the grate in the door to reassure the puppy that I am still there. Usually, they will only whine for a short while and may even fall asleep if they are tired. I stay there until the whining subsides and the puppy calms down and then open the crate door. 5-10 minutes usually. If the puppy happens to fall asleep, great! I let him sleep in the crate until he wakes up and then it's right outside to go potty. I don't use alot of praise and fanfare when I open the crate door and I ignore the puppy for a few minutes after he is out so that he doesn't get the impression that getting out is much more fun than being in the crate. I do not let the puppy out of the crate until he is quiet for at least 30 seconds and has calmed down if he has been whining. I might try and distract him with another toy to give him a chance to be quiet so I can let him out while he is quiet but I WILL NOT let him out, especially the first time, until he IS quiet. I don't yell or correct in any negative way. I just make up my mind that I will calmly wait the puppy out no matter what. The First Night At Home If you have gotten your puppy during the day and had time to do the above steps, great! The puppy will already be familiar with going in the crate after a treat. If not, and you want to begin the puppy's life at his new home sleeping in a crate here's what to do. I play with the puppy till he's tired, make sure he has pottied outside and place the comfortable crate (with pad and towels etc.) on a chair or table right next to my bed where I can reach it while I'm still lying down. My night stand is set up for this purpose. I remove any collar that might be unsafe, place or lure the tired puppy into the crate (possibly with a safe toy) go to bed and turn out the lights as usual. If the puppy whines, I place my fingers in the grate of the crate and talk softly to the puppy until he falls asleep. I may lose a little sleep that night and possibly the next but I will NOT open the door for the puppy for at least four hours. (I repeat: the puppy has successfully pottied just before this!). I do not get angry with the puppy or yell at him but I do not give in and let him out either. If the crate is comfortable and warm enough, the lights are out and you are right there to talk softly to him and let him lick your fingers, then usually he will fall asleep within an hour, less if he is tired. At eight weeks of age you cannot expect the puppy to go more than four hours without pottying. So, as soon as the puppy whines after waking up, have your sweats, shoes and shirt ready to take the puppy outside. Dress yourself quickly before you open the crate, carry the puppy to the potty area immediately, praise softly and gently for a job well done, bring him back in and without getting into a play session with him, return the puppy to his crate, turn the lights out and go back to sleep. If the puppy fusses for awhile, talk softly and put your fingers in the grate of the crate. Two or three nights of this at the most and your puppy will be used to the routine. If you happen to sleep through the puppy whining and he is forced to potty in his crate because he can't hold it, don't blame or scold the puppy. It is your responsibility to get the puppy out BEFORE he has had a chance soil his den. Clean it up using a urine neutralizer (I use a light vinegar and water mix) put clean towels or pads in the crate and return to your routine. Set an alarm clock if you have to. The crate should not be too big for the pup, otherwise there will be enough room for the puppy to soil in it's crate and not think about it as soiling his sleeping area. Later on, after the puppy is used to it's routine and after he no longer needs to go out every four hours, you can put the crate on the floor of your bedroom or somewhere else in the house.> If you'd like to read the article in its entirety,the site url is: [url]http://www.siriusweb.com/AAD/crate.html[/url] BTW, did you decide on a name for him yet? :D ...Oh, and I sent you a private message earlier. I'm not sure if you received it,but THAT site is definately worth checking out...you might find some great crate training tips posted there :D

eeeek! is it HOT in here or is it me?? :wink: hmmmm, I'm staying out of the "to crop or not to crop" debate...I've been in too many heated "discussions" over that issue on other forums (take my advice....agree to disagree,and leave it at that...its a no-win topic) As for the white Dobie thing.....BEAGLE (if you ever come back), my advice is to steer VERY clear of any breeder that would knowingly breed Dobermans with the white gene. I would definately question their integrity and code of ethics. Please check out this website if you get a chance.... [url]http://www.geocities.com/~amazondoc/albinism/[/url] There seem to be so many health problems with these dogs.....breeding to purposely continue the white line seems almost cruel to me :( (JMHO)

[quote name='Anonymous']Excellent! BTW, should go without saying that the black one my daughter is holding in the second pic is the Boston Terrier. >> ...Dante, ...Zeus ... Hmm, those two have a nice ring to them. "Zeus", mighty, quirky, but friendly. Keep 'em coming, I'll bounce them off the wife & kids.[/quote] yep....noticed the Boston...what a great pic!...he and your daughter look like they adore each other :D Oh, and the little boy (your son?) is an absolute doll! What a cutie :D as for the name game...my son has contributed "Oz", "Cyrus" and "Justice" to the list (I think they must be characters in some video game :roll: LOL)

Dogs' pet peeves 1. Blaming your GAS on me...not funny...not funny at all. 2.Yelling at me for barking...I'M A FRIGGIN' DOG!! 3. How you naively believe that the stupid cat isn't all over everything while you're gone. Have you noticed that your toothbrush tastes a little like cat butt?!! 4. Taking me for a walk, then not letting me check stuff out. Exactly whose walk is this anyway? 5. Any trick that involves balancing food on my nose..........stop it. 6.Yelling at me for rubbing my butt on your carpet. Why'd you buy >carpet? 7. Getting upset when I sniff the crotches of your guests. Sorry but I haven't quite mastered that handshake thing yet. 8. How you act disgusted when I lick myself. Look, we both know the truth, you're just jealous. 9. Dog sweaters. Have you noticed the FUR? 10. Any haircut that involves bows or ribbons. Now you know why we chew your stuff up when you're not home. 11. When you pick up the crap piles in the yard. Do you realize how far behind schedule that puts me? 12. Taking me to the vet for "the big snip," then acting surprised when I freak out every time we go back. 13. The slight of hand, fake-fetch-throw. You fooled a dog! What a proud moment for the top of the food chain. :roll:

Oh geez...here are some of the names hubby rejected when we were trying to think up a name for OUR boy: Flash,Dante,Bruin,Chance,Odin,Jett,Zeus,Remy(short for Remington).......etc,etc.. NOT that its any help......pet names are such a personal thing..... :wink:

Ohhhhh...he is too CUTE!!!...what an absolute sweetheart :D !! Too bad you live down in SOUTH FL, or we could get he and Loki together for a play date when he's older. As far as the PetSmart/petstore type classes, I can't give an opinion one way or the other, as I've never attended one there...it seems to me that their classes are held during store hours, right smack in the middle of the store though, so you could always find out when the puppy class is taking place and then drop in and watch how the trainer conducts the class. I would try to do this with ANY class you're thinking of signing up for (not just PetSmart). That way you can get an idea of what methods the trainer uses to train and how the dogs/owners respond. Some people just don't mesh well with some trainers...follow your gut instinct,and DON'T attend classes with a trainer you're not completely comfortable with,or it will not be a good experience for you OR your dog. <sigh> now I WANT a puppy too!!!!! LOL

[quote name='K']Never get a long hair Saint Smooshie its brushing all the way!!!! :roll:[/quote] LOL...I can just IMAGINE,K.....any luck with that new Hoover yet??

[quote name='Jacsmom']A BEAUTIFUL English Setter---->>>>[url]www.oakleysetters.com[/url][/quote] Oh My....what a STUNNING dog! .......I cringe at the thought of all that grooming though :o

Sounds like you're on top of everything :D My only comment is....is there a medical reason why your vet suggested you wait before starting organized class training? I see nothing but benefit from starting as early as possible (ie. puppy classes) They teach : -socialization with people AND other dogs, -problem intervention to help prevent such common problems as separation anxiety, house-training problems, resource guarding, and destructive behaviors; - general good puppy manners,such as leash walking BEFORE the pup becomes too big to handle,plus beginner "sits" and "downs","recalls" and "no jumping up" (which I find particularily valuable if you have young children) puppy classes start as young as 8 weeks, and are designed to promote good socialization skills as well as confidence in young puppies. Anyway, this is JMO, but definately something to think about...Boxers are exuberant dogs, very industrious chewers/diggers, AND they have a tendancy to develope separation anxiety ...I figure the earlier you start classes,the easier it is to curb these behaviors <jumping down off my soapbox now> :wink:

Hey!, Ralph congratulations on the new addition! :D . I can't wait to see pics of the little guy! I can't say that I'm thrilled at the news that the breeders were using a white Dam (whites shouldn't be used as breeding stock), BUT I'm not gonna be an activist...as long as your puppy is healthy, and you are happy with him, so be it :) . First things first, you should take your new pup to YOUR vet for a checkup ASAP,just to be on the safe side (you want to make certain you're getting what you paid for, and you don't want the new pup passing on any parasites or germs to your Boston). As for introductions,check out this article for tips on how to socialize your new pup with your older dog; [url]http://www.cityofreno.com/pub_safety/police/animalsrv/dogs/introductions.html[/url] and please don't leave them alone together unsupervised...even for a moment...its amazing how fast an "accident" can happen! Is this your first Boxer? If it is, you and your family are in for QUITE a ride! LOL... they are such great dogs (especially with children) They are stubborn though, so you'll need to get a handle on that right from the start...I suggest enrolling him in a puppy preschool as soon as possible, and keep us posted on how he's doing! :D

I have to agree with both K AND Guest on this......get your vet to refer you to a good behaviourist, and in the interim, start racking your brain as to what might have caused the dog to become so distrustful of people. Is there a chance that someone might have hurt him,or teased him when you're not around? Is he kept inside while you're away? Is he nippy with kids AND adults? How is he with other dogs?? The more information you can offer a trainer, the easier it will be for them to get to the root of the problem,and help you get your pup back on the right track. Good luck :)

great suggestion Guest Pat ! :D To the Guest that posted this thread; I'm not sure what area of South Florida you're in, but there IS a show coming up in Palmetto on the 25th of this month....the details are posted on the Tampa Bay Boxer Club website. Let us all know when you get your puppy/dog...we'd love to see pics of the new family member :D

Have you tried contacting the boxer club in your area? They might have a listing of reputable breeders they can give you : -Northeast Florida Boxer Club PO Box 1647 Macclenny FL 32063 -Tampa Bay Boxer Club [url]http://www.angelfire.com/d20/tbbc/home.htm[/url] 8505 Ridge Road Seminole FL 33772 -Southeast Florida Boxer Club 6348 SE Mourning Dove Way Hobo Sound FL 33455 -Boxer Club of SW Florida 17289 Lee Rd. Fort Meyers FL 33912 Consider asking anyone you contact or who contacts you what health testing has been done on their dogs before breeding. Boxers are known for heart and thyroid problems....and also can be prone to skin problems and dysplasia The minimum testing should be a Doppler/auscultation by a Cardiologist (to check for Aortic Stenosis/Sub-AS), a 24 hour holter monitor (to check for Boxer Cardiomyopathy/Familial Ventricular Arrhythmias) and a thyroid test. Do you have your heart set on a puppy, or would you consider adopting an adult? The rescues here in Florida have some wonderful dogs available (thats where my Boxer is from). They come fully vetted ,socialized,and spayed/neutered (most are completely housebroken,and some are even crate trained and started on obedience!)....plus their temperament is evaluated so they can be matched to a suitable family. If you'd like to take a look, their site addy is: [url]http://www.flbr.org[/url] (statewide) or [url]http://boxerfriends.org/[/url] (miami-dade area) good luck with your search! :D